Dr. Jian QIAO was a researcher of raw ingredients in L'ORÉAL Paris, and now he is the founder of the Guan Chen Biotechnology Co., LTD

• Aims:

1. To know whether our oscillating system is suitable for producing cosmetic products.
2. To determine which product deserves to be produced through Synbio according to the current direction of the beauty industry.

• Process:

We successfully established contact with Dr. Jian QIAO, who is not only a cosmetics research expert but also a prominent TikTok influencer with over 60 million followers. On April 28th, we held an online meeting with Dr. Jian QIAO and his colleague to finalize our project design. The experts were enthusiastic about our ideas for the industrial application of the oscillating system. They suggested that to better align with the fashion and cosmetics village of iGEM, we could try to focus on producing cosmetics raw ingredients like surfactants. Surfactants are widely used in cosmetics as essential excipients with emulsifying, cleansing, foaming, and solubilizing properties, found in daily cleansers, emollients, skin creams, and so on. Additionally, they recommended producing cosmetic preservatives at the same time, which are crucial for extending the shelf life of cosmetics by inhibiting microbial growth. Thus, they suggested leveraging the oscillating system to produce key skincare ingredients such as ergothioneine or rhamnolipid, along with alcohol for its preservative properties.

• Reflection:

We could modify yeast to make it produce raw materials for cosmetics. To achieve this, we need to further explore yeast's metabolism pathways, including lipids, carbohydrates, amino acids, vitamins, and so on. After two candidate products (surfactants and cosmetic preservatives) have been determined, we should focus on reading the established metabolic pathways of them.

• Action:

1. We studied more than 80 pathways of yeast metabolism in the KEGG database
2. We looked for examples of products with yeast-originated cosmetic ingredients that can be achieved by gene editing.

• Aim:

Although we had explored all the pathways of yeast metabolism, we still felt a bit lost and were eager to know the current market pain point of original ingredients for cosmetics.

• Process:

Before our communication with the experts, we conducted thorough research on the products developed by Guanchen Biotech. During our investigation, we discovered that the company produces glycosylated ceramides, a type of glycolipid known for its beneficial properties in skincare. This discovery led us to formulate a specific question: Could one of our products potentially be a type of glycolipid?

When we posed this question to the experts, they not only affirmed our hypothesis but also provided us with valuable insights. They highlighted two types of glycolipids that are gaining significant attention in the skincare industry: rhamnolipids and sophorolipids. These "rising stars" are becoming increasingly popular due to their promising applications in skincare formulations. Furthermore, the experts pointed out that many companies are now focusing on producing these glycolipids through the innovative techniques of synthetic biology. This trend reflects the growing importance of sustainable and efficient methods in producing advanced skin care ingredients, marking a significant shift in the industry toward more scientifically driven approaches.

• Reflection:

We thought the current topic had been determined. We would achieve oscillatory production of glycolipids and polyols using longevity yeast based on gene oscillations to slow down aging, thus generating a certain proportion of glycolipids and preservatives as raw materials for the cosmetics industry. One of the products, glycolipids, is a novel surfactant that few manufacturers can make. At present, the main two prevalent categories of glycolipids are rhamnolipids and sophorolipids, which are specifically produced by just two companies - Evonik and BASF.

• Action:

1. We started searching for information on these two glycolipids, including marketing and R&D.
2. However, we encountered significant challenges while attempting to implement this project, primarily due to the lack of references on yeast and the highly complex metabolic pathways involved in producing rhamnolipid and sophorolipid.
3. Additionally, we struggled to identify other cosmetic ingredients compatible with our oscillating system. We have considered cosmetic preservatives like butylene glycol, and sorbitol, but it is difficult for yeast to produce. We are on the edge of giving up previous efforts in the fashion and cosmetics village and returning to our initial design concept.

• Aim:

We decided to communicate with our team members and advisors to finalize the selection of our product and village choice.

• Process:

Step 1: brainstorm

Our team members and advisors met and thought about other possible cosmetics raw materials. Two of the most sought-after ingredients in skincare for their restorative properties are ceramides and α-bisabolol. We intended to use our oscillating system to achieve an optimal ratio of the two ingredients to achieve maximum effect and reduce their toxicity to yeasts. The yeast would then be cracked to obtain the yeast extract, which, after purification and the addition of antioxidants, would form the basis of our low-cost, effective cosmetic product.

Step 2: ask cosmetic experts online

The cosmetic experts agreed with our design and mentioned that our product could be benchmarked against the PITERA™ in SK-II products, whose main product is a type of yeast extract. They reminded us that because of regulatory restrictions, these detailed ingredients cannot appear in the ingredient list but can be exposed on the product details page. They also suggested that the final product effect and positioning could be toward people with sensitive skin so that the positioning of the product was clearer.

• Reflection:

We decided to continue our exploration of producing raw ingredients in cosmetics. And we recognized that the ingredients we produce would have the advantage of being able to be used on sensitive skin.

• Action:

1. Began to look for information about the application of ceramides and α-bisabolol in the cosmetics industry, as well as the definition of sensitive skin.
2. Designing experiments and arranging experimental programs for wet lab groups.

Professor Wenwen Huang and Professor Jiazhang Lian are our instructors, who are both experts in genetic engineering.

• Aim:

Considering the difficulty of the experimental manipulation, we had switched our experimental plan from directly inserting tsc10 and MrBBS genes into yeast genome to introducing pRS42H-TSC10 and pESC-MrBBS plasmids and would like to seek feedback from our instructors on the feasibility and safety of the new experimental design.

• Process:

We presented our new experimental plan to the instructors, detailing each step. This included the purpose of the experiment, the plasmid design, the expected experimental procedure, the measurement of population lifespan using high-content microscopy, and the flow cytometry to confirm the relationship between SIR2-mCherry expression and cell lifespan, and other experimental designs, respectively. The instructors gave their approval of the new plan. Additionally, Professor Lian suggested incorporating the GAL system to link oscillation and production, which could improve the experimental outcomes.

• Reflection:

The original insertion genome program did have feasibility issues. Changing the design to plasmids is safer and more feasible.

• Action:

We began to design the plasmid in detail and apply the GAL system.

Proya is a cosmetic brand that started in China and has its sights on the world, with international cutting-edge scientific and technological skincare concepts.

• Aim:

1. To make sure whether a cosmetic raw material that is not a single component can be accepted by the market.
2. To explore the benefits and application of our planned ingredients (ceramides, bisabolol, and yeast extracts).
3. A quick look at the current state of the skincare industry in China. And to identify key areas for focus in our research, ensuring that we target the most relevant and impactful aspects of cosmetic ingredient development.

• Process:

During our discussions, the R&D personnel mentioned that although most companies prefer to use pure raw materials, some companies produce raw ingredients with more than one component. For example, the SymRelief ® produced by Symrise is a mixture of bisabolol and Ginger Root Extract. It is an anti-irritant and is used for soothing, healing, calming, sensitive skin, skincare, and redness reduction. Thus, our product could aim at those products.

we uncovered several critical insights into the current state of skincare product development. It became clear that while ceramides are highly valued for their skin barrier benefits, their formulation presents challenges due to their high melting points and stability issues. This led us to realize that further research is needed to explore the latest advancements in encapsulation technologies that can enhance the stability of ceramides in skincare formulations.

We also learned that bisabolol is commonly used for its soothing properties but must be carefully dosed to avoid irritation, especially in sensitive skin formulations. This highlighted a gap in our knowledge regarding optimal concentration ranges for bisabolol in various product types, prompting us to prioritize this area in our future research.

Regarding yeast extracts, the R&D personnel emphasized their growing popularity due to their multifunctional benefits, such as moisturizing and anti-aging properties. However, the diverse types of yeast extracts used across different brands, like PITERA™ in SK-II products, suggest that we need to investigate the specific strains and fermentation processes that yield the most effective results. Additionally, understanding consumer perceptions of these bio-synthetically produced ingredients is crucial, as there may be lingering concerns about their safety and efficacy.

Through these conversations, we also identified a significant trend towards sustainability and ethical production in the cosmetics industry. The R&D personnel noted that synthetic biology offers a promising pathway to meet these demands, yet there is a need for more comprehensive data on the environmental impacts of these processes compared to traditional methods.

In summary, while our discussions provided valuable insights, they also highlighted areas where our understanding is still incomplete. Moving forward, we plan to delve deeper into encapsulation technologies, bisabolol concentration standards, yeast fermentation processes, and the environmental benefits of synthetic biology to address these gaps.

• Reflection:

Based on our findings, we identified several actions to enhance both the product formulation and the marketing strategy. During this visit, we realized our limited understanding of the skincare product development field, so we conducted further literature research.

• Action:

1. Our design of producing a cosmetic raw ingredient with a mixture of components is possible. And we can learn more about those products with a mixture of components from famous brands like SymRelief® from Symrise and PITERA™ in SK-II products.
2. Integrating information about our three products according to the interview and internet research.

Our research revealed that ceramides, despite their crucial role in maintaining skin barrier integrity, are challenging to work with due to their tendency to crystallize at lower temperatures. This characteristic necessitates advanced formulation techniques, such as the incorporation of ceramides into lipid-based delivery systems that ensure their stability and efficacy in skincare products.

Bisabolol, a soothing agent derived from chamomile, is valued not only for its anti-inflammatory properties but also for its ability to enhance the penetration of other active ingredients. However, the dosage of bisabolol must be carefully calibrated; too little may not provide the desired soothing effect, while too much can lead to skin irritation, especially in sensitive skin types. This makes bisabolol a critical component that requires precise formulation and thorough testing to optimize its benefits while minimizing potential drawbacks.

Yeast extracts, particularly those rich in beta-glucans, have gained popularity for their ability to stimulate the skin's natural defense mechanisms and promote cell regeneration. These extracts are produced through controlled fermentation processes, which can be fine-tuned to yield specific bioactive compounds. For example, certain strains of yeast are specifically cultivated to produce high levels of antioxidants and other skin-beneficial nutrients. Understanding the intricacies of these fermentation processes has allowed us to better appreciate the potential of yeast extracts in innovative skincare solutions.

3. Integrating some of the rules and regulations to look out for in the cosmetics market.

Controlling production variables is essential to ensure product stability and efficacy. For instance, ensuring that ceramides are properly encapsulated and bisabolol is used within safe limits can greatly enhance product performance and safety. Moreover, stability tests under various conditions, such as high temperature and humidity, are necessary to evaluate the long-term performance of these ingredients in formulations.

On the marketing front, we plan to highlight the sustainability and ethical production methods used in creating these ingredients. By showcasing the reduced environmental impact and ethical advantages of using non-animal-derived ingredients, we can appeal to a broader consumer base, particularly those who prioritize eco-friendly and cruelty-free products.

Additionally, consumer education will be a key component of our strategy. We intend to create content that informs and reassures consumers about the safety and benefits of bio-synthetically produced ingredients, thereby building trust and transparency around our products.

By integrating these elements into our overall strategy, we aim to capture a significant share of the growing market for sustainable cosmetics, ensuring that our products are not only effective but also aligned with current consumer values.

4. We sent the yeast for testing and confirmed that the yield of bisabolol was reasonable.

• Aim:

1. To consult common skin problems people may meet in their daily life.
2. To determine whether our products have side-effects.

• Process:

In our recent interview with a dermatologist, we explored various aspects of skin health, the effects of skincare products, and specific ingredients consumers should be mindful of.

Q1: When consumers purchase skincare products, which ingredients should they pay attention to on the ingredient list?

Consumers need to be cautious when choosing skincare products, especially when reviewing the ingredient list. The dermatologist identified several common ingredients that could potentially cause skin reactions. These include ethanol/alcohol, fragrances, carbomer, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, hydroquinone, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, imidazolidinyl urea, liquid paraffin, and mica. Each of these ingredients can have varying effects on different skin types, and consumers should be aware of their skin's sensitivity to these components before making a purchase.

Q2: Have you encountered patients who developed skin problems due to skincare products? Are skin problems easily overlooked?

The dermatologist highlighted a common issue with the misuse of corticosteroids, which can lead to skin dependency. While corticosteroids may initially improve the skin's appearance, stopping their use can cause significant problems to emerge, often worsening quickly. These issues can manifest as redness, skin thinning, dryness, tightness, and in some cases, steroid-induced acne-like lesions. The underlying point is that minor skin issues can easily be overlooked or dismissed, but with the wrong products or misuse of treatments, these small concerns can escalate into more serious conditions.

Q3: Are there any precautions for using ceramide and bisabolol, either separately or together? Why is it rare to see them combined in products?

Ceramide, a type of lipid, has limited known side effects due to the lack of comprehensive clinical studies. On the other hand, bisabolol is recognized for its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties, which help alleviate discomfort like dryness and redness. While some institutions are researching the potential for a synergistic effect when combining ceramide and bisabolol, the clinical data is still insufficient. This is one reason why these two ingredients are not commonly found together in skincare products. It remains an area of ongoing research, with more studies needed to fully understand their combined impact.

Q4: Which skin types should avoid using yeast extract (such as in SK-II)?

The dermatologist advised that individuals with a thin stratum corneum and sensitive skin should avoid products containing yeast extract. Yeast extract can aggravate sensitive skin, leading to irritation and potentially worsening existing conditions.

Q5: Do you think the explanations of cosmetic ingredients found online (such as on platforms like the Red Book) are reliable? How can the public learn about scientific skincare knowledge?

The dermatologist emphasized the need for caution when relying on online explanations of cosmetic ingredients, particularly on platforms like the Red Book. While these sources may provide some helpful insights, they are not always accurate or based on sound scientific evidence. It is crucial for users to carefully scrutinize this information before making decisions about their skincare routines.

For those seeking reliable sources of skincare knowledge, following the official WeChat accounts of dermatology hospitals was recommended.

Q6: If we want to create a skincare science popularization for the public, what content do you think is most important?

Moisturizing helps to maintain the skin's hydration and barrier function, while cleansing removes impurities without damaging the skin. Sun protection is vital to prevent long-term damage from UV exposure, which can lead to premature aging and increase the risk of skin cancer. These core aspects of skin care are essential for maintaining healthy skin and should be the focus of any educational content aimed at the public.

• Reflection:

Consumers are encouraged to pay attention to ingredient lists and consult with a dermatologist when unsure, especially if they have sensitive skin or are prone to skin issues. The ongoing research into ingredient combinations like ceramide and bisabolol suggests that skincare science is continually evolving, offering hope for safer and more effective products in the future. And hopefully, our project can contribute to research in this field. It also stressed the importance of verifying online skincare information and seeking out credible sources.

• Action:

1. Look for more information and instances of whether people with thin stratum corneum and sensitive skin should avoid using yeast extract.

Summary of data search:

Many people assume that yeast extract may harm the stratum corneum, making it unsuitable for sensitive skin. This belief often stems from reports of allergic reactions to certain skincare products, particularly those containing bifida ferment lysate. However, this assumption overlooks the fact that different types of yeast extracts have distinct properties. Our product uses Saccharomyces cerevisiae (budding yeast) lysate, which has been shown to be much gentler and well-tolerated by a wide range of skin types, including sensitive skin. Unlike bifida ferment lysate, Saccharomyces cerevisiae is less likely to cause irritation and allergic reactions. Additionally, extensive research has not found any credible evidence suggesting that Saccharomyces cerevisiae lysate harms the skin's protective barrier. In fact, it has been proven to strengthen the skin's natural defenses, making it a safe and effective ingredient for sensitive skin [14].

Saccharomyces cerevisiae lysate is widely used in skincare products due to its multiple benefits, particularly for sensitive skin. Research has shown that it not only helps enhance the absorption of other active ingredients but also provides essential nutrients that support skin health. Its fermentation components soothe the skin, strengthen the barrier function, and reduce inflammation. The presence of β-glucan in Saccharomyces cerevisiae contributes to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to alleviate redness and irritation commonly experienced by sensitive skin. Additionally, the extract provides a strong moisturizing effect, locking in hydration and improving the skin’s overall water balance, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. By optimizing cellular oxygen consumption and detoxification processes, Saccharomyces cerevisiae lysate ensures that skincare products are both safe and effective for sensitive skin, making it a reliable choice for those seeking to improve their skin condition.

2. Our product can serve as an auxiliary object to release dermatology, like the skin dryness and redness caused by suddenly stopping using corticosteroids.

3. We began to seek some necessary topics in the popularization of cosmetics.

• Aim:

1. Confirmation of various issues during plasmid design.
2. Request necessary plasmids from the instructor.

• Process:

We presented our revised system design to the professors and wanted to request some materials to proceed with the experiments. Professor Huang expressed concern about the large scale of the proposed work and suggested that it would be more efficient to have certain plasmids synthesized by a commercial company. This would save both our time and effort. On the other hand, Professor Lian proposed to abandon CRISPR and provided us with pRS42H & pRS42B plasmids.

• Reflection:

We learned that our initial experimental plan was overly ambitious, and next time, we need to refine our schedule and objectives to ensure they are realistic and manageable.

• Action:

We began to construct the necessary plasmids and order other plasmids from commercial companies.

• Aim:

1. Learn more about cutting-edge applications of synthetic biology in the beauty industry.
2. Have communications with other skincare companies.

• Process:

From July 4th to 5th, iZJU-China participated in the SynBio+ 2024 Synthetic Biology Conference held in Hangzhou, with a particular focus on the Cosmetics Forum. During the event, we gained insights into the prevalent trends of biomanufacturing and the growing popularity of synthetic biology in the current era. We were also enlightened about cutting-edge technologies in cosmetics, including explant callus technology, recombinant collagen, the benefits of fermentation lysate products, ECM's repair mechanism, 3D Raman spectroscopy for tracking the transdermal effects of ceramides, and a comprehensive approach to cosmetic efficacy validation that encompasses in vitro cellular and histological tests, animal models, human efficacy evaluations, and transcriptome/metabolome verifications.

Moreover, engaging interactions with numerous companies specializing in cosmetic technology development have solidified our approach to refining our research topics. We were now committed to exploring larger-scale models for cosmetic assessment.

• Reflection & Action:

1. Two companies named INTERFERON and Biocatsyn Biology attracted our attention through the fantastic introduction of their research and the highly relative research field. And we gained further contact with the two companies about our project after the meeting.

2. We planned to visit companies in person to practically learn about their experimental platforms and their professional insight into market trends.

3. Change our design from producing raw materials to completed skincare products.

Inspired by this conference, we wanted to pursue further on our design of this project, aiming to create our own brand and product. Thus, we analyzed the pros and cons of producing raw materials. We realized that while we have products like SymRelief® as a reference, we hadn't yet established our brand effect and credibility, and influence. First, we needed to produce a product to ensure our core ingredients performed well. Additionally, if we provide raw materials to other companies, they might not be satisfied with the current composition and could request specific percentages of the ingredients. This could lead us to create personalized products, which presents challenges, especially in the engineering of yeast. However, if we focus on producing a product, we don't need to worry about it being a mixture and needing to be further purified. In fact, the oscillating system becomes an advantage, as it can be more efficient and energy-saving to produce yeast extract, ceramide, and α-bisabolol simultaneously.

Our advisor also supported this direction, saying: 'I think this forms a logical and well-rounded approach. The next step is to gather data on this particular skin issue, such as how common it is. Then, investigate the market presence of the two related products, looking at their market dominance and actual effectiveness. Since many people experience skin problems, you can explore this both socially and within your own circles. It might even be helpful to find someone dealing with this specific issue. Or, consider how you originally approached understanding this skin problem and the molecules involved in addressing it.'

• Aims:

1. To exchange the latest research results with teams from different universities and research institutions to fuel the future research directions of our team, especially for the human practice part
2. Establish professional contacts with other contestants, experts and potential partners

• Process:

We attended the 2024 iGEMer China Regional Exchange Conference hosted by Xi 'an Jiaotong-Liverpool University from July 12-14, 2024. Our team not only presented our projects but also gained valuable feedback and inspiration through in-depth exchanges with other teams and experts. From one of the lectures on the work of HP, we are clear about HP's position and where to go from here. At the professor's suggestion, we re-studied HP-related materials on iGEM's official website and read papers to learn social science knowledge. From the feedback of Professor Xu: ‘The project is interesting, but it needs to be further considered for industrial applications. It can be referred to as the synthesis of artemisinin in 2006, and only artemisinic acid is synthesized because the chemical synthesis of artemisinic acid is cheaper and simpler. This project involves many steps, both components are cytotoxic, and conversion costs are considered.’ Thus, we started to think about the cost of our product.

During the conference, we actively participated in various activities, including keynote lectures, project presentations, poster exhibitions and discussions, and evening parties, which not only broadened our horizons but also allowed us to learn about the latest technologies and trends in synthetic biology. In addition, we also met many peers from all over the country, established professional contacts, and laid the foundation for future cooperation.

• Reflection & Action:

1. our team realized the cost problems of our project. Based on this, we conducted a comparative study with the cost of biological semi-synthesis and finally determined that our method was better (click here for more information).
2. We recognized the shortcomings of our human practice part, including the lack of a systematic integration framework and the lack of professionalism in interviewing stakeholders. Thus, through re-studying HP-related materials on iGEM's official website, we decided to establish and refine the AREA framework and improve our professionalism by conducting interviews and surveys. 3. we maintained contact with Jilin University, Zhejiang University of Technology, and other teams.

Biocatsyn is oriented towards the application fields of medicine, food, cosmetics (produce the products α-bisabolol), agriculture, bio-based chemicals, etc., committed to the research and development and application of green biofiltration technology for related products. Interferon has a complete range of biologically effective protein raw materials with yeast (fibulin, collagen, elastin, etc.). It has established a full set of active functional protein raw materials, a skincare efficacy evaluation system, and a skin repair mechanism research system.

• Aim:

To study the feasibility analysis and suggestions of two professional cosmetics companies on our topics and products, specifically the skincare efficacy evaluation system.

• Process:

During the online discussion, we introduced our project, listened to their product layout, and discussed the improvement of our project.

Initially, the intention was to create a cosmetic scoring model that would evaluate the reasonableness of formulations based on cosmetic ingredients. They suggested that the model itself was meaningful, but still could not realistically replace the work of a manual formulator. This is because there is no model that can be called upon, nor is there a standard that can be used to evaluate cosmetics uniformly. And, this workload is impossible for us to complete by ourselves. They suggested that we could make more models that are more relevant to our topic itself, such as how our oscillation system decays.

• Action & reflection:

1. We still thought that the scoring model was an innovative and feasible model candidate. And we aimed to evaluate the reasonableness of our cosmetics scoring model by communicating with other professional stakeholders.
2. We evaluated the feasibility of switching to the model studying oscillating systems and systematically modeling the relationship between yeast metabolism and lifespan.

• Aim:

We are not doing well with our PCR experiments and would like to seek help from the instructors.

• Process:

After times of failure in PCR experiments of some key genome fragments, we thought that there might be problems in the template of the yeasts’ genome and various processes of PCR. Prof Lian suggested that we can do a few positive control experiments first.

Firstly, we can use a plasmid as a template to ensure that the PCR system is functioning properly. This would help us confirm whether the reagents and conditions of the PCR were sound. Afterward, we need to use the yeast genome as a template to amplify the ADH1 gene, a commonly used reference, to verify the integrity of the yeast genome itself.

• Reflection:

Through this experience, we recognized the importance of efficiently identifying and solving issues with PCR. We will implement this approach when encountering similar challenges in the future.

• Action:

We found out that all positive control experiments failed, indicating that the issue was likely in the PCR procedure rather than the genome or plasmid. After adopting the new extraction template method, we successfully resolved the problem of PCR.

Guanchen Biotech was founded in 2021. It focuses on the research, development, and production of efficient and pure cosmetic raw materials, and is committed to providing high-quality raw material solutions for domestic and foreign cosmetics brands. The company adheres to the concept of "science and technology to create beauty". Through technological innovation and strict quality control, it undergoes quick development in the beauty industry.

• Aims:

1. To get some advice for our project to better improve the product
2. To further understand about cosmetic innovations and business models
3. To acquire knowledge about the laws and regulations on cosmetics

• Process:

Our team talked with the people in charge of the Guanchen Biotech, who are also experts in cosmetics research and development. In the meeting, the founder of the company introduced the basic information about the company as well as the situation and current progress of our project. Based on our introduction of the project, experts asked some questions about the raw material production, the innovation of our product and our cosmetic essence evaluation model.

For the raw material production, as the two major functional substances we decided to use in our product are ceramide and bisabolol which are cytotoxic, both are produced intracellularly, and when they accumulate to a certain amount, the cell will not produce ceramide and bisabolol any more or will even die. Because of that, the feasibility of the project was questioned.

For the innovation of our product, experts gave some suggestions about our human practice. To confirm that our designed product is useful as a skincare product, research about the common formulation of cosmetic products is necessary. Compared to normal cosmetic production, we just produce the materials with the biosynthesis method which is the most creative point.

For the cosmetic essence evaluation model, the company founder suggested that we could pay more attention to producing the main and featured components of the skin care product and it is also not necessary to develop the model. Many aspects need to be considered while evaluating cosmetics and scoring a kind of cosmetics is difficult to achieve with our remained time. As the core of our project is our product, it would be better if we focused on raw material production.

What's more, we asked about the laws and regulations on cosmetics in our country. In order to further strengthen the management of cosmetic raw materials and to guide the licensing and daily supervision of cosmetics, the General Administration of Food and Drug Administration (GAFDA) organized the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC). During the production of our cosmetics, we need to pay attention to IECIC and make sure that it meets the requirements of the country.

In the business promotion section, experts advised that since our production is based on the biosynthetic way, plant protection is a main feature of our product. Also, we can combine our longevity yeast with anti-aging of the skin and use this as an advocacy point. Meanwhile, we inquired about the business models of normal cosmetic innovations to better develop our brand.

In the communication, we mentioned the public's misunderstanding of “natural origin”. Nowadays, most people have blind faith in cosmetics with the label “natural origin” and think that synthetic things are unsafe although the final ingredients used are the same. As a result, it is important to popularize the subject to the public and let them know the mechanism behind the natural and synthetic products.

After the meeting, we were given a tour of the company's laboratory by the company's founder to learn about the experimental environment in which they developed their cosmetic products. To satisfy the hygienic requirements of cosmetic production, there are several kinds of laboratories with professional instruments in the company.

Through this visit, we got several useful and important suggestions which point the way to improvements for our project.

• Reflection:

While culturing the yeast, we need to be concerned about the intracellular concentration of ceramide and bisabolol and observe the state of the yeast clearly. We may pay more attention to extracting the yeast product than developing the integrated model in the rest of the months, as the product is the core of our project, and the model may be difficult to realize. What's more, the purity and confirmation of yeast extract are also important in the production. After getting the yeast extract, we will test and check it to make sure it meets the requirements. Meanwhile, several kinds of related human practices, including research about the current cosmetics market, popularization of natural and synthetic products for the general public, and so on, will also be held to enrich and improve our project. For the model, we decide to focus on the oscillating system investigation.

• Action:

1. Further research about the common formulation of cosmetic products

2. Give up the cosmetic essence evaluation model

3. Popularization of natural and synthetic products

4. About productive rate, our modeling + literature checking + wet experiments so far show that
  a) we should keep bisabolol and ceramides within the yeast
  b) our oscillator allows yeast to produce bisabolol and ceramide at a slower rate than overexpression
  c) yeast is able to randomly switch on the expression of some genes through transposon migration mediated by spt proteins, and thus acquire resistance
  d) slower production allows yeast to have longer to develop resistance, and thus our yeast is more tolerant to bisabolol and ceramide
  e) more tolerance = more products can accumulate in the cell = higher yield compared to overexpression

The Chinese beauty town is a cosmetic specialty town that integrates culture, tourism, and community

• Aim:

1. To acquire knowledge of the beauty industry and its development
2. Preliminary market research, especially of products with Yeast Extract

• Process:

we visited the Chinese beauty town located at Daixi town, Huzhou city, Zhejiang province thanks to the invitation of Guanchen Biotech. China Beauty Town is a cosmetic specialty town that integrates culture, tourism, and community. We first visited the museum on the theme of beauty and makeup. The special exhibits of relative products produced by China Beauty Town according to the timeline displayed the effort of development of the town from the settlement of PROYA R&D Base only to the present day, which covers an area of 3,000 acres and has successfully introduced 31 projects. The detailed exhibition of makeup in different areas also informed us about the history of beauty and immersed us in the unique charm of beauty culture.

Then, we visited a nearby makeup market for products produced in the Chinese beauty town, as well as famous international brands. We found many products with Yeast Extract on the first place of the ingredient list like the facial cleanser of SK-II, the eye cream of LA MER, the repair masque of MaskQueen, and so on. Then, we intentionally asked about the product with Yeast Extract. The response of shop assistants made us feel as if they were not familiar with products with Yeast Extract and its specific functions, even though there are many related products available nearby that contain Yeast Extract. It seems like few shop assistants, not to mention customers, really understand or care about Yeast Extract but pay more attention to purely the brands and effects of products.

• Reflection:

We have decided to focus more on introducing yeast extracts and their application in sensitive skin in the education section in the future, with reference to what we have learned about at the Beauty Museum. In addition, we will also place more emphasis on branding and evaluating the effectiveness of our products.

• Action:

1. We compare and contrast different products with yeast extract, ceramide, or α-bisabolol. (click here for more information)
2. We further fulfilled the background of our project.

Ashland is a supplier of additives and specialty products for the personal consumer and industrial markets, covering construction coatings, automotive, energy, food and other sectors.

• Aim:

1. To acquire knowledge from a leading supplier of cosmetic raw materials.
2. Conduct market research to understand mainstream market demands and the differences between domestic and international markets.

• Process:

As a global leader in additives and specialty products, Ashland is committed to sustainable development and serves both the personal consumer goods and industrial sectors. In pursuit of deeper insights from a pioneer in the cosmetics industry, we visited Ashland's Shanghai office.

Initially, we were taken to their laboratory, equipped with advanced instruments such as ELISA, PMA plates, and a fluorescence microscope. Notably, their "Sensory Evaluation Laboratory" consists of five isolated rooms with open windows, designed for professional evaluators to assess the skin conditions of volunteers, thereby significantly reducing human error.

Following a concise introduction to Ashland, they showcased their innovative products, including the Antaron series, Lubrajel preservative-free hydrogel, and GP4GTMCN plankton extract. Each product exemplifies Ashland's creativity and their dedication to environmental care.

During the conference, we posed several questions regarding our products, such as potential safety concerns about biological fermentation and how to tailor ingredients for different ethnicities. Ashland provided detailed explanations and practical advice in response to these inquiries. They also noted that the global market, particularly in Europe and the USA, increasingly favors products with natural ingredients, which is a positive sign for the acceptance of biological fermentation. This insight suggests that we can promote our bio-synthetic techniques as a competitive marketing strategy.

However, after understanding our business model, Ashland's technical consultant raised concerns about our approach. For a company whose core strength lies in technology, focusing on ingredient supply, as Ashland does, might be a more viable option than directly manufacturing beauty products.

Yet, our director offered a distinctive perspective, stating, "We aspire to establish a beauty industry chain centered around yeast fermentation. We aim to reduce the cost of yeast production, making skincare accessible to a broader audience and breaking the monopoly of luxury brands in this domain."

• Reflection:

Ashland's professional skin assessment methods have provided us with valuable insights. For the evaluation of our products, we should aim to control variables and eliminate irrelevant factors such as subjective biases during assessments and the selection of volunteers to ensure the accuracy and reliability of the results.

Specifically, we will conduct a thorough product evaluation with a diverse group of volunteers, spanning different genders, races, ages, and skin types. Each participant's initial skin condition will be meticulously documented. After product application, an unbiased professional will objectively assess the skin in a controlled environment. Volunteers will then self-rate their experience using a questionnaire, capturing their subjective feedback. The immediate product effect will be recorded using ultra-HD technology, providing clear visual evidence of the skin's response. Long-term effects will be evaluated in a subsequent study, offering comprehensive insights into the product's sustained benefits. This systematic approach ensures a fair and detailed examination of the product's performance across various skin profiles.

Once, we believed that consumers only recognized the value of plant extracts and thought that yeast extracts might be a significant disadvantage for our products. However, our visit to Ashland has shown us that we can emphasize that "yeast extracts are also natural." In the future, we will focus on three main areas to expand our brand's influence: education, promotion, and innovation.

Firstly, we will initiate educational campaigns to inform consumers that yeast extracts are naturally derived and highlight their unique benefits, such as promoting skin cell renewal and enhancing skin immunity. Additionally, we will provide scientific research and clinical trial results to demonstrate the efficacy and safety of yeast extracts, thereby increasing consumer trust.

Secondly, we will leverage social media platforms and Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) to promote the advantages of yeast extracts and broaden our brand's reach.

Thirdly, we will continuously develop new yeast extract products to maintain our competitive edge in the market and meet consumers' curiosity and demand for innovative products. By implementing these strategies, we aim to enhance the market acceptance of yeast extracts and strengthen our brand's position.

Moreover, despite receiving endorsements from professionals for yeast fermentation, further field research and market surveys are necessary to gauge consumer apprehensions about this process. Finally, Ashland's skepticism towards our business model has spurred us to refine our approach further. Moving forward, we plan to consult with business experts to gain more professional and targeted advice, enhancing our strategy for success in the beauty industry.

• Action:

1. Set up business groups to discuss business models and communicate with professionals.
2. Publicize the benefits of yeast extract on the skin through social media such as the Red Book and WeChat public accounts. (click here for more information)

Miss Pi LIN is a professional beautician offering services in the skincare and beauty industry.

• Aim:

1. Understand the needs and consumer preferences of the skincare market from the practical experience of beauticians
2. How to effectively promote and design products to ensure that their scientifically developed skin care products can be accepted by the market

• Process:

1. Consumer situation of sensitive skin

- Whether you often encounter sensitive skin customers:
The proportion of customers with sensitive skin is larger, which is mainly caused by damage to the stratum corneum. Causes include excessive cleaning, the use of poor-quality skin care products, and inadequate UV exposure and sunscreen. This means that skin care products should be designed with special attention to the needs of sensitive skin consumers, especially the efficacy of repairing cuticles and protective barriers.

2. The popularity of natural plant extracts

- Consumer preferences:
Natural plant extract products are favored by consumers, especially those that are pollution-free and have the effects of repairing skin barriers, moisturizing, and whitening. Such products not only promote better but also attract more attention, especially under the trend of emphasizing natural and healthy skin care.
- Other promotional directions to impress consumers:
In addition to "natural plant extraction", if the propaganda can highlight the concept of "no addition", "mild formula", "repair effect", and "antioxidant", it can also effectively attract consumers. In addition, the support of scientific research, such as clinical trial data and validation of effectiveness, can also enhance consumer trust.

3. Yeast extract and consumer safety concerns

- Safety concerns about yeast extract:
Consumers who are unfamiliar with yeast extracts may have safety concerns, especially if they feel that microbial-derived ingredients may present unknown risks when used in skin care. Therefore, when promoting products containing yeast extract, special attention needs to be paid to the promotion of safety.

4. Consumers' awareness of yeast extract

- Consumer cognition status:
Yeast extracts are not well known to the average consumer. Therefore, the salesperson or skincare brand needs to increase the trust of the consumer by explaining its specific efficacy and safety. Sales communications can emphasize the moisturizing, repairing, anti-aging and other properties of yeast extract, while combining scientific evidence to help consumers dispel doubts.

5. The impact of unique packaging design on the brand

- Impressive packaging design: Unique and brand-image bottle designs can leave a deep impression on consumers. For example, conveying the high-end, professional, or environmental concept of the product through the packaging design can strengthen consumers' desire to buy. Innovative bottle shapes, high-quality materials, and environmentally sustainable design are all key elements that attract attention.

• Reflection:

Consumers generally show a preference for natural plant extracts, but awareness of yeast extracts is more limited. Therefore, future product promotion should pay attention to professional interpretation and publicity, strengthen the scientific proof of safety and effect, but also pay attention to the innovation of packaging design and brand image.

Suggestions we summarized:

- Launch a line of restorative, mild ingredients for sensitive skin.
- Emphasize keywords such as "natural," "no additions," and "antioxidant" in the promotion.
- For yeast extract ingredients, focus on promoting their specific efficacy and scientific support to reassure consumers.
- Highlight brand characteristics and environmental protection concepts in packaging design to increase visual appeal.
- Natural plant extracts can also contain impurities that are harmful to the skin and chemical synthetic ingredients can sometimes be purer and need to be viewed critically

• Action:

1. Design product packaging.
2. Highlight the concept of "no addition", "mild formula", "repair effect", and "antioxidant" when we are advertising our product in the future.
3. Self-made a short animation to show the public themed “Natural plant extract products and biosynthetic products”.

Mary Kay is a globally well-known beauty brand dedicated to the development and marketing of skincare and color cosmetics.

• Aims:

Our aim is to gain a comprehensive understanding of the regulatory framework governing the cosmetics industry in China. By interviewing Mary Kay's Quality Department staff, we seek to clarify the legal requirements for cosmetics production, operation, and supervision, ensuring our project's alignment with industry standards.

• Process:

We engaged in a detailed discussion with Mary Kay's Quality Department staff to understand the regulatory landscape of the cosmetics industry in China. The interview highlighted the importance of adhering to the legal framework for product safety and compliance.

• Reflection:

The interview revealed that a thorough understanding of Chinese cosmetics regulations is essential for ensuring product safety and compliance. It became evident that further study is required to deepen our knowledge of these regulations and enhance our project's adherence to legal standards.

• Act:

We looked for important cosmetic regulations applied in China on the advice of QA, researched each one, and organized them into specific categories for the team and more people to study:

1. Overall Regulations:

Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations: The fundamental law that sets the basic principles and requirements for cosmetics production, operation, and supervision.

2. Raw Material and Product Regulations:

Cosmetics Registration and Filing Management Methods: Outlines the procedures, requirements, and management systems for cosmetics registration and filing. Cosmetics Classification Rules and Classification Directory: Provides classification guidelines for cosmetics based on risk assessment.

3. Production Regulations:

Cosmetics Production and Operation Supervision and Management Methods: Details specific management methods for cosmetics production and operation, including production permits and quality management standards.

4. Operation Regulations:

Cosmetics Labeling Management Methods: Specifies the content, form, and requirements of cosmetics labels, including ingredient identification and usage instructions.

5. Supervision and Management Regulations:

Cosmetics Safety Assessment Technical Guidelines: Offers technical guidance for the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients and finished products.
Cosmetics Production Quality Management Standards: Sets standards for quality management systems and operational norms during the cosmetics production process.

6. Special Regulations:

Cosmetics New Raw Materials Registration and Filing Data Management Regulations: Specifies the data and assessment requirements for the registration and filing of new cosmetics ingredients.
Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards: Requires that efficacy claims for cosmetics must be scientifically supported and outlines the methods and requirements for efficacy evaluation.

By gaining a comprehensive understanding of these regulations, we aim to strengthen our project's foundation in legal compliance and industry best practices. This will ensure the safety and efficacy of our products and prepare us for potential regulatory challenges in the future.